Archive of Thread: Ribbing tension Back

4 years ago
Hi,
I’m new but have been lurking and learning for a couple of weeks. What a wonderful resource you have created Sue, I would be lost without Knititnow.
I’m ready and keen to start on my first sweater but have a question about the ribbing. Should it be knitted at the same tension as the rest of the sweater or a bit tighter? When hand knitting it’s always recommend to use slightly smaller needles for the rib.
I don’t want to end up with a frilly hem but also don’t want it to be too nipped in. Any advise would be appreciated. 
Thanks Nik

4 years ago
HI Nik!
Thank you for the kind words!  I'm so glad to know that we are inspiring your knitting! 

Going with the logic of hand knitting, I knit my ribbing at a tighter tension.  

More importantly, the key to success is the cast on.  IMHO the best ribbing cast on is the "Broken Toe" method. The idea behind it is to knit a strand of yarn in the tubular cast on. You can then use the strand to "gather" up the edge for blocking and remove it when you are done. You can also run a blocking wire in the edge of the ribbing for blocking.  That little extra effort makes such a big difference!

Here's a video with 3 methods

Happy Kniitting

4 years ago
thankyou for this hint with ribber tension.i have been struggling as the manual told me to knit the rib on the double bed with tension 2. ..I didnt know it could be altered...my garment is knitted at tension 6  so the rib was too tight....So having undone everything 6 times i will now try knitting the rib at tension 4.2
and hopefully this will work so i can transfer the stitches to the main bed and do my stocking stitch.

4 years ago
Usually it's a good idea to follow the manual to the letter, but Tension/Gauge one of those occasions when you need to follow your own path.  Yarns can vary so much and so can personal preference when it comes to tension.  Even what suited one yarn and stitch may not suit the same yarn and stitch in a different colour - dye can make a big difference.  Sometimes you may want a very soft, loose fabric, another time you might want it more firm.  Don't be afraid to experiment with various settings on the Tension Dial until you arrive at what you are happy with.

As for ribbed welts and bands, it is very common for patterns to suggest a rib tension of 3 whole numbers lower than for the main garment, but this is just a SUGGESTION.  Again, try different settings to see what looks and feels right for you..

When trying a new yarn, I cast on about 20 stitches and knit a strip, changing tension by 2 points every 10-20 rows, for example from 5·· to 7·· .After examining the strip I'll do a proper tension swatch at what seems to be the best tension for that yarn.

Jenny 

4 years ago
[QUOTE username=Jenny M Benson  Jenny M Benson userid=6733032 postid=1310374668]

When trying a new yarn, I cast on about 20 stitches and knit a strip, changing tension by 2 points every 10-20 rows, for example from 5·· to 7·· .After examining the strip I'll do a proper tension swatch at what seems to be the best tension for that yarn.

Jenny [/QUOTE]

I believe @Nancy Mangeri  calls this her "getting acquainted" swatch 

4 years ago
Thank you all for the feedback. I have halved the tension for my rib but left the mast alone. (Main tension 4 rib tension 2).

Much more of a reduction than I would have ever used with hand knit and could have possibly reduced it a bit more!

With Sue’s recommended sweet self taughtening edge ‘broken toe’ cast on this seems to be working well. Fingers crossed my first sweater will be be wearable.