Need Help?Archive of Thread: Newbie from Cumbria - any tips for hanging combs on necklines please? Back
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3 years ago
He there
I’m new to the community having just bought second hand standard gauge and chunky machines and ribbers. All parts are working well following a bit of TLC. I’m not totally new to knitting - I had a machine 30 years ago that I gave away as I never thought I’d have the time to use it again! Some of the skills have begun to return...... the brain cells are clicking into place......but I’m really struggling to use the ribber beds to knit neckbands on sweaters. I seem to get totally tangled up when I try to hang on the combs and end up with a real snarl up of comb, weights and mangled knitting! Any ideas please? Do I hang the comb at the back or the front of the work? Should I use the ‘perfect selvedge’ approach for the first row or just start the RC from the first pass of the carriage?
All suggestions gratefully received. This site is an amazing asset!
Jan
3 years ago
Cumbria, UK? Whereabouts?
Are you talking about picking up stitches round the neck and then hanging the ribber comb? I find the easiest way to do this is to lower the rib just one step - it's usually only necessary to lower it at one side unless it's a very wide piece of knitting. It is then much easier to bring the comb up in front of the knitting and between the ribber needles, put the wire in and then lower the comb the stitches between the beds. (I'm using a Brother machine where the ribber can be lowered just about an inch or all the way down. Don't know if this is possible with a Studio/Knitmaster ribber.)
My usual mehtod with neckbands is to pick up the stitches on the back bed and knit 2 rows. Then transfer the stitches fto the ribber in 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 format or whatever and hang the comb. Knit twice the required depth for the band, transfer ribber stitches to the back bed and pick up the stitches from the last stockinet row and hang them on the needles. Knit about 4 rows and scrap off with waste yarn. Finally, use a backstitch through the loops of the last row to secure the little flap. (It's not necessary to remove the waste yarn first.)
Jenny
Wrexham, UK
3 years ago
Thanks so much - I will give all this a go later. I have Brother machines too and the tip about dropping the ribber down a notch is really helpful.
Jan
3 years ago
Welcome Jan! So glad to have you join us!
It's good to hear that "the brain cells are clicking into place" What's your secret? 😄
Sue
3 years ago
Hi, Jan, I do exactly what Jenny does, but I don't try to put the ribber cast on comb on. I just use a few claw weights. I found that much easier than trying to get the comb through the stitches. Good luck, and happy knitting.
3 years ago
Thanks everyone - I tried dropping the ribber down a notch and .....Yeay! ......I use the comb without any snarl ups! Will try the claw weights method too. I’m blown away by this fantastic resource - it’s marvellous to find that there is a global community out there ready to help and inspire. Already I know the joining subscription was money very well spent!
3 years ago
[QUOTE username=Jan Corlett Jan Corlett userid=7651961 postid=1322561379]
He there
I’m new to the community having just bought second hand standard gauge and chunky machines and ribbers. All parts are working well following a bit of TLC. I’m not totally new to knitting - I had a machine 30 years ago that I gave away as I never thought I’d have the time to use it again! Some of the skills have begun to return...... the brain cells are clicking into place......but I’m really struggling to use the ribber beds to knit neckbands on sweaters. I seem to get totally tangled up when I try to hang on the combs and end up with a real snarl up of comb, weights and mangled knitting! Any ideas please? Do I hang the comb at the back or the front of the work? Should I use the ‘perfect selvedge’ approach for the first row or just start the RC from the first pass of the carriage?
All suggestions gratefully received. This site is an amazing asset!
Jan
[/QUOTE]
3 years ago
if you have knit the sweater and now are rehanging the neck edge, then hang it all on the main bed and transfer every other stitch to the ribber, set you tension on top bed and bottom bed, push ribber up and if you are right handed, grab your knitting under the ribber and pull it down you will not harm it or destroy it, and with the right hand run the carriage for as many rows as needed, then finish off by your preferred method. that is how I do all my neck line no matter what machine, standard, mid gauge, or bulky.
3 years ago
For a neckline, I join one shoulder seam then hang the entire round neckline (V neck is worked differently) which I have on scrap yarn.
Then I knit 1 row at garment tension. Transfer desired MB needles to RB (1x1, 2x2, etc). Hang cast on comb in front of work carefully trying to not split any stitches. Insert wire. Hang 2 heavy weights to start. To knit the first row of rib, I pull all needles out on RB first, then pull out all MB needles to “D� position. Knit rib about 3 full tensions tighter than garment tension. Add more weights per manual recommendations. To get the neckline to lay flat nicely, you need to gradually decrease the tension about 1 click every 2 rows for a 1� wide neckband. When # of desired rows have been knit, transfer RB stitches to MB. I then take the stitches off on an appropriate size circular needle, then bind off by hand. If you bind off on the machine, you need to knit your last row of ribbing at least 4 tensions looser before the transfer of RB stitches to MB. Then bind off on the machine
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